Tuesday, May 20, 2008

Crossing the Ocean

Once again, apologies for the delay in posting the story about our crossing, but we've just been having way too much fun in the Marquesas for me to sit down in front of the computer to write down the many thoughts and memories swirling in my head. As you know-from reading our previous post-we arrived in the Marquesas after 16 days at sea.

Overall we had a wonderful crossing. Remember, wherever you see latitude/longitude coordinates, you can paste them into Google Earth for a bridseye view. If you haven't tried this, it's a worthwhile experience.

Day one of the crossing and Isla Socorro is already disappearing in our wake. It took us 2 days to get from Los Cabos to Isla Socorro and we had a pretty rough run. It was windy, the seas were confused and short and we didn't have our sea legs yet. Every man jack aboard was seasick and we were relieved to get a break at Socorro. We didn't have permission to visit the Revillagigedo Islands, ~300 miles off the coast of Cabo San Lucas, to the commandant of the military base there gave us special dispensation for 24 hours while we rested and worked on a watermaker problem. We couldn't dive or fish, but still the rolly anchorage was a welcome haven from which to postpone the final leap.

Day 3. We're starting to get into a routine. The weather's been really nice. Much more gentle than the first 2 days from Baja to Socorro. We've even had to motor at night. We're not making great time, but it's much more comfortable, nobody is seasick and the kids can play outside.

The kids spend most of the day outside when the weather's like this. They wear their harnesses and have to be strapped in if they leave the salon into the cockpit. They're not allowed out of the cockpit onto the deck unless an adult's with them.

Day 6. We've started to get our first squalls. There's a lot of rain, but so far no real wind in them. We can see them coming on the radar and usually steer around them. Sometimes though they materialize right in front of us, dump a bunch of rain and ten dematerialize in the space of 10 minutes. The sea is weird here. There are 3 swells running, each from a different direction. They form pyramids that throw Océalys off balance and knock her about. They're not big or dangerous, just unpleasant. Down below the cacophony is deafening. That's one of the disadvantages of a catamaran-the noise. Waves hit both hulls at weird intervals and the bigger ones smash against the bottom of the boat with a huge BOOM! It sounds like she's coming apart, but I've looked around for hairline cracks in the gelcoat and I put my hand where the cabinetry is grinding against itself noisily and decide that the motion's not that significant. Just really loud. I think back to a conversation I was having with my dad just before leaving about the properties of different materials. An advantage of the composite plastics (like the fiberglass, Kevlar and carbon that Océalys is made of) is that they don't really care about cyclic loads, much unlike metals. That's a good thing, because I've been watching that padeye that holds the windward mainsheet and it pulls the whole stern quarter of the boat up a good inch every time the mainsail slats on a roll. I haven't found a solution for that yet... Just hold together another 2000 miles, baby. We dropped the spinnaker in the water when we doused it after dinner tonight. The sock got stuck at the top, so we had to do a normal douse. We couldn't get it to luff and it shrimped in the water. Sophie let the whole guy fly (we'll have to re-reeve it through the deck) and Austin and I heaved the thing aboard. No large tears apparent. We have to start dousing it earlier so that if we have a problem we're not so tired and there's still light left.

Day 7. We're still getting some crappy weather, but the rain is usually intermittent. Even in this gloom, Austin keeps his spirits up. In fact, he's excited about seeing all these varying and intense conditions in the middle of the world's biggest ocean. It's been great to have Austin on board. He's turned out to be a better crewman than I could have designed from scratch. He's always eager to work on the boat, he knows what needs to be done without being told and he's great with the kids. He even goes about his duties aboard Océalys in a gingerly fashion which would warm any captain's heart: since damage to the ship is dangerous at sea and costly in port.

Day 8. The weather's cleared for now and it's getting warm on board. Broke the "Olympic" pool out for the kids and they had a blast. They've adapted to life at sea wonderfully and watching them you'd think they'd been at sea all their lives. They haven't even started the "are we there yet" routine. Occasionally one will ask "How many more days?" or "How far are the Marquesas?" and simply say "Oh, OK." when they get the answer and then they continue about their business. Sophie is absolutely amazing with the kids. She's got great patience and devotes 80% of her daytime energy to their demands without complaining. This would be difficult for me back home, let alone while crossing the Pacific on a tiny sailboat that never stops moving. She's also cooking most of the meals and stands a full night watch (4 hours) on her own.

4.28.2008
An entry from the Ship's Log:
01:13 Zulu.
Position: 1º19.21N, 123º29.85W
Miles to go: 1,169
Miles made good last 24: 115
COG: 228ºM
SOG: 8kts
Barometer: 1012millibars. Steady.
Wind SE 15kts, PCloudy, ATemp 80º, WTemp 80º
Port Engine running 1600 RPM. Sounded 55 Gallons Port tank at 1310 Engine Hours.
Sailed close hauled almost all day with all upwind canvas flying including both solent and gennaker. Just turned Port motor back on because we slowed to 4kts. At 1700rpm we're hitting 7's and some 8's. Wind is up to 16kts apparent, but without the motor we slat from the short, confused seas. Told Sophie to wake me if wind holds steady at 18kts and we'll douse the gennaker. Maybe shut off engine if we can point high enough and keep up speed. I need to stay above 230ºM, which is the beeline for the Marquesas. I'm worried about not making enough Southing at this point. Looks like some squalls in the distance, but they're downwind of us. Unless the wind backs, we won't make the Equator tomorrow.

Day 10: EQUATOR
4.29.2008. Today we crossed the Equator at noon. It was sunny all day with a light breeze. Austin got us revved up to celebrate the crossing with a party to honor Neptune. Sophie made costumes and the crew dressed up as mermaids and mermen and the Captain dressed up as Neptune, as is the custom. It was the first equatorial crossing for everyone but me, but I spared them the ritual keel-hauling. Instead, everyone went for a swim behind the boat. The water was a wonderful 80º. We tossed champagne and rum to stay on Neptune's good side and had a festive dinner that included brownies (I can't believe Sophie found the energy to bake too).

The next 6 days are pretty uneventful. We celebrated Austin's 25th birthday on the May 2nd and Sophie baked another cake. We had some bumpy and uncomfortable weather for a couple of days. I'm getting more seasick than I've been for the whole trip, even though the weather's not particularly rough. We've got a couple of small tears in the spinnaker and a couple of delaminations in the gennaker, both of which we can fix in Tahiti. The main on the other hand is showing some pockets of delamination that are a bad sign and this weighs on me during my watches. It's not dangerous, in fact only slightly affects performance, but it means we'll have to replace the main within a year, which is a very major expense. One of the refrigerators is acting wierd, and the watermaker is still not making very good water. The mood on board is a little heavy, the crew is getting tired and they're ready to be in the Marquesas.

Early morning on May 5th, after 16 days at sea, we spot land. Nuku Hiva rises black and precipitous out of the ocean. No barrier reef, the oceanic swells beat directly against her volcanic sides. The breeze is carrying her rich earthy smell to us while we're still well offshore and spirits on board soar. By 10:00 we're anchored in the bay in front of the main town, and our South Pacific adventure begins...

Wednesday, May 7, 2008

OCEALYS Has Arrived In Nuku Hiva

Hello all.

After 16 days and 2,500 miles at sea, we arrived at Taiohae Bay, Nuku
Hiva in the Marquesas on May 5th at 17:30 Zulu. We had a great
crossing with no major incidents or damage to the boat.

We're getting settled in to a different routine in this beautiful, if
not secluded bay. We're surrounded by about 40 other cruising boats!
So much for this being the middle of nowhere. The weather's warm, but
not uncomfortable and we've already begun exploring the village

We'll post a more thorough update in a few days, but we just wanted to
let everyone know we've arrived safely.

You can resume sending emails now that we're not counting on the
connection for critical weather and safety information. We love
hearing from you. Please send text only with no enclosures, images, or
goofy signatures with animated graphics.

More details soon...

The crew aboard Océalys.

Friday, May 2, 2008

update 5/2/08

2 May, 16:45 Zulu

Position: 04º10.92S, 131º58.91W
SOG: 10.5kts
COG: 230ºM
Wind (T): E 20-25kts
Seas: S SWELL TO 8'. S WIND WAVES 3-6'

Happy Birthday Austin!!!

Much better last 24 hours. Lots of squalls yesterday during day, but
wind also, so we've been pulling 9's and 10's. Now we're doing 9 to 11
knots and the boat is moving around a LOT. It's hard to type.

ETA is the 4th or 5th now, if we can keep up this kind of speed.
556nm to go.


All is well aboard.

OCEALYS CLEAR

Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Ocealys update 4/29 --EQUATOR--

29 April, 16:45 Zulu

Position: 00º13.26N, 124º52.90W
SOG: 7.6kts
COG: 192ºM
Wind (T): SE 15kts
Seas: S SWELL TO 6'. S WIND WAVES 1-3'

We are out of the doldrums and into the SE trades! Not sure why the
doldrums have such a bad rap, it was probably the best part of the
crossing so far. Calm seas, not too hot and we just gently motored
along for a couple of days, dodging the squalls showing up on radar.

Now we're sailing close hauled with every stitch of canvas up, boards
down and hitting 8 knots. We're finally steering a straight course for
the Marquesas.

Today we will cross the EQUATOR! The kids made costumes yesterday for
the Neptune party and they're getting presents ready now. Austin
brought a good bottle of rum to give to Neptune, and we have an '85
magnum of very good champagne for him...

Hoping for an arrival in the Marquesas on the 5th or 6th, but that
will depend a lot on the wind now.

All is well aboard.

OCEALYS CLEAR

Monday, April 28, 2008

Crossing Update 4/28/08

28 April, 15:00 Zulu

Position: 1º58.25N, 122º23.052W
SOG: 5.5kts
COG: 182ºM
Wind (T): S 10kts
Seas: N swell, S wind seas to 2'
Motoring, port engine 1950rpm

Yesterday we had a great day of motoring through calm seas here in the
doldrums. Everyone slept well the night before, and it didn't get too
hot aboard.

We've gotten really good at reading the squalls that surround us with
the radar, and have managed to dodge all of them in our path in the
last 24 hours.

We're past the 1/2 way mark now and really settling into a routine.
Since it was calm yesterday we set up an inflatable pool for the kids
in the cockpit and they splish-splashed for a couple of hours. The
manlier thing to do would be to go for a dip in the 84º water, but
we've been regularly spotting sharks following us, so maybe not this
time around...

At dinnertime a grey gull landed on deck to take a break for a few
hours and we fed her steak from the dinner table.

We should be crossing the equator early tomorrow morning with all of
the pomp and festivities appropriate for the occasion.

All is well aboard.

OCEALYS CLEAR

Saturday, April 26, 2008

Ocealys Crossing Update 4/26/08

26 April, 15:30 Zulu

Position: 5º47.30N, 121º37.61W
SOG: 5.3kts
COG: 170ºM
Wind (T): 12 kts NNE
Seas: Mixed swells 6' to 8'. 3 different swells running. Bumpy

Officially entering the ITCZ in about 50 miles. Passed squalls last
night and this morning with slight increase in wind and light rain.
They show up clearly on radar, so was able to avoid one last night.
Saw a fishing boat around 0400.

Spinnaker sock got stuck last night when we went to douse it after
dinner, so we had to bring it down without. Spinnaker went in the
water and we had to let go of the guy completely to keep it from
inflating under the boat. Managed to get it back on deck without any
apparent tears, and will have to figure out how to re-run the guy
under the deck. We will be dousing it earlier in the evening so that
if we have problems, we're not dealing with them in the dark. Boat is
noisy below decks at night when we're not under spinnaker and it's
hard to sleep.

Kids have been doing really well the last couple of days and Sophie is
doing a great job taking care of them and keeping them busy.

Austin has been an immense help and is wonderful to have aboard.

It's getting warmer and everything on board, above and below decks, is
wet.
We are past the 1/3 mark with 1,400 miles to go. We currently estimate
arrival between the 3rd and the 7th.

All is well aboard.

OCEALYS CLEAR

Sunday, April 20, 2008

OCÉALYS CROSSING UPDATE

20 April, 16:00 ZULU

Position: 17º07.361N, 112º14.339W
SOG: 6.4kts
COG: 212ºM
Wind (T): 8.5kts N-- 7kts Apparent at 120º
Seas: Mixed swells to 8'

Left Socorro yesterday at 1400 local time. Sailed with spinnaker then
screecher until dinner time, then doused canvas and motored all night.
Wind was less than 6 kts. Motored 6.5 Kts w/ 1 engine at 1800RPM.

Just put the spinnaker up after doing 4 kts all morning with main and
screecher.

Steering for a waypoint at 7ºN, 120ºW. 760 Miles and 5 days to go at
this speed. That's the 1/3 mark.

It's been an easy start to the crossing. Skies are clear and
temperatures are already climbing. Sea temp is 76º.

All is well aboard.

OCEALYS CLEAR