Really the Middle of Nowhere

Today I write from a REALLY remote spot. We're anchored inside
Beveridge Reef (20º01.01'S, 167º45.20W). It's a roughly circular reef
that is always submerged. Nothing comes up over the surface except one
ominous wreck. Without GPS–and the hand-drawn pirate map we found with
corrected coordinates–the reef is nearly invisible until you're on top
of it. There's a relatively easy pass into the reef and the anchoring
is not too bad... my teacup is next to me and hasn't spilled yet, but
the boat is making her "at sea" sounds.

We got here yesterday afternoon after a 2 day sail, or should I say
motor, from Palmerston Island (which deserves an entry of its own.
Definitely a unique experience there). After a good nap we had some
friends from the only other boat here over for tea, and then we played
with a 9' bull shark, feeding it jacks that Massimo and the boys were
catching off the stern. It was one of those "Don't fall in the water
now, kids" moments.

There is some very bad weather coming so we need to cut our visit here
short and get to some shelter as soon as possible. There are 35 knot
winds and 30' seas expected, and we won't be able to make it all the
way to Tonga, so we'll stop at Niue and hope for the best. The
anchorage there is poor, but should abate most of what's dangerous, if
not provide much comfort. We have a short, rough 24 hours ahead of
us, and we'll leave after doing a quick dive in the pass. It would be
criminal not to get in the water at least once here...

Update from Mopelia

We've been in Mopelia (Maupihaa) for the last couple of days enjoying
what could very well be our favorite spot of the trip so far. The
atoll lies 125nm West of BoraBora and there are only two other boats
here with us. It's absolutely beautiful here. The pass is VERY narrow
(about twice our beam, or 50'), with a 5 to 7 knot outgoing current,
but it was well worth the stress getting in here. We've made friends
with one of the 4 resident families and have been living one adventure
after another together. Yesterday they invited the 3 boats ashore for
a feast of lobsters, coconut crab and fish.

Today we moved Océalys from the anchorage in front of their house to a
spot right next to the pass. Sophie and the local Sophie took the kids
ashore (with 7-year-old Tetuanui) to collect tern eggs. Calami, the
McKown Brothers and I went spearfishing in the pass. It was one of the
most memorable dives of my life hunting for 2 hours in a 5 knot
current with a *lot* of sharks about. We lost 2 fish to sharks tearing
them off our spears after they'd been shot, and I had to fend off an
aggressive Gray Reef shark with jabs from the butt of my gun until it
was convinced I didn't have any fish on me. Austin is really getting
the hang of spearfishing and Joel is starting to get the hang of it
quickly.

After fishing we moved Océalys to the other end of the lagoon with
Calami, Sophie, and Tetuanui aboard so we could have a BBQ on the
beach at their "other house". Grilled fish, poisson cru (raw fish in
fresh coconut milk), breadfruit, and coconuts to drink. We ate all
afternoon while the kids played in the water. We're back on board and
the kids are ready for an early bedtime after feeding Jessica, our new
resident coconut crab. We just hope she doesn't get loose at sea as
she could easily take a couple of fingers off with her powerful claws.

We're still debating our next series of stops, but so far the only
decision we've made is not to leave beautiful Mopelia yet. Just a
couple more days...

Today we're setting sail to leave French Polynesia for points west! We've had a wonderful 3 months here that at times seems like it was a year, and at others, like a week. We've visited all the main islands (Tahiti-Moorea-Huahine-Tahaa-Raiatea-BoraBora) and made lots of new friends.

In favor of a lengthy text, this time we'll just share lots of pictures.

Next for us are Maupihaa, Suvarov (Cook Is.), Niue, Tonga, and Fiji by about September 15.