Friday, August 29, 2008

Really the Middle of Nowhere

Today I write from a REALLY remote spot. We're anchored inside
Beveridge Reef (20º01.01'S, 167º45.20W). It's a roughly circular reef
that is always submerged. Nothing comes up over the surface except one
ominous wreck. Without GPS–and the hand-drawn pirate map we found with
corrected coordinates–the reef is nearly invisible until you're on top
of it. There's a relatively easy pass into the reef and the anchoring
is not too bad... my teacup is next to me and hasn't spilled yet, but
the boat is making her "at sea" sounds.

We got here yesterday afternoon after a 2 day sail, or should I say
motor, from Palmerston Island (which deserves an entry of its own.
Definitely a unique experience there). After a good nap we had some
friends from the only other boat here over for tea, and then we played
with a 9' bull shark, feeding it jacks that Massimo and the boys were
catching off the stern. It was one of those "Don't fall in the water
now, kids" moments.

There is some very bad weather coming so we need to cut our visit here
short and get to some shelter as soon as possible. There are 35 knot
winds and 30' seas expected, and we won't be able to make it all the
way to Tonga, so we'll stop at Niue and hope for the best. The
anchorage there is poor, but should abate most of what's dangerous, if
not provide much comfort. We have a short, rough 24 hours ahead of
us, and we'll leave after doing a quick dive in the pass. It would be
criminal not to get in the water at least once here...